MTB Repairs: Adjusting Your Rear Derraileur

I have a Shimano SLX M7000 rear deraileur that I have been battling with.

I found an excellent video from parktool on rear deraileur adjustment that I use as the basis of my repairs.

Always make sure derailler is straight and secure on the bike – otherwise the below will not bare any fruit. This needs to be repaired first.

Step 1: Setting the H-limit screw

This is setting the limit on the smallest sprocket on the rear cassette.

1. Shift into smallest sprocket – all the clicks
2. Wind barrel adjuster in towards the shifter – clockwise facing the shifter from the cable
3. Switch off clustch
4. Jockey wheels must be lined up veritcally under the sprocket – holding the lower cage down gives a good position sitting at the back of the bike

Step 2: Set the L-limit screw

1. Shift into highest sprocket (easiest gear)
2. Wind barrel adjuster in towards the shifter – clockwise facing the shifter from the cable
3. Switch off clustch

4. Jockey wheels must be lined up veritcally under the sprocket – holding the lower cage down gives a good position sitting at the back of the bike

   • then do the biggest sprocket
   • then do b-tension screw
   • 11 speed – 46T – 8 or 9 mm
5. correct cable tension
   • pull it to be taught
   • hold derailler cage to reisist it moving

6. index the gears

   • start in the smallest

   • put it up then go back down

   • do for the first 3

   • if there is too much tension it will go up 2 or 3 gears – not just the one

   • use barrel adjuster a quarter at a time

   • move barrell adjsuter anti-clockwise facing the shifter from the cable

   • barrel adjuster – clockwise adds slack (moving shifting positions outward) – anti-clockwise – tightens