MTB Repairs: Adjusting Your Rear Derraileur

I have a Shimano SLX M7000 rear deraileur that I have been battling with.

I found an excellent video from parktool on rear deraileur adjustment that I use as the basis of my repairs.

Always make sure derailler is straight and secure on the bike - otherwise the below will not bare any fruit. This needs to be repaired first.

Step 1: Setting the H-limit screw

This is setting the limit on the smallest sprocket on the rear cassette.

  1. Shift into smallest sprocket - all the clicks
  2. Wind barrel adjuster in towards the shifter - clockwise facing the shifter from the cable
  3. Switch off clustch
  4. Jockey wheels must be lined up veritcally under the sprocket - holding the lower cage down gives a good position sitting at the back of the bike
hi-limit-adjustment-before
Limit set incorrectly not aligned correctly
hi-limit-adjustment-after
After h-limit screw has been set and sprocket aligned

Step 2: Set the L-limit screw

  1. Shift into highest sprocket (easiest gear)
  2. Wind barrel adjuster in towards the shifter - clockwise facing the shifter from the cable
  3. Switch off clustch
  4. Jockey wheels must be lined up veritcally under the sprocket - holding the lower cage down gives a good position sitting at the back of the bike

    • then do the biggest sprocket
    • then do b-tension screw
    • 11 speed - 46T - 8 or 9 mm
  5. correct cable tension
    • pull it to be taught
    • hold derailler cage to reisist it moving
  6. index the gears

    • start in the smallest

    • put it up then go back down

    • do for the first 3

    • if there is too much tension it will go up 2 or 3 gears - not just the one

    • use barrel adjuster a quarter at a time

    • move barrell adjsuter anti-clockwise facing the shifter from the cable

    • barrel adjuster - clockwise adds slack (moving shifting positions outward) - anti-clockwise - tightens